#Sancerre wine how to#

The Sauvignon Blanc is quite interesting because it enhances the flavour of the vintage.’ If we have a warmer vintage, like 2006, there are more oxidative flavours, like candy fruit and honey. When the vintage is cold there are more reductive flavours like truffle or asparagus. Of the three vintages here the coldest was 1996.

‘There is a relationship between the wine flavour and whether it was a warm or cold vintage. ‘I really believe that the climate has a specific effect on the vintages,’ says Arnaud. The main difference between the two properties would be the climate of the region, and also some differences in the soil. But the Mont-Damnes is Kimmeridgian marl from the Jurassic period, which is also found in Chablis and Champagne.’ Density of planting is 6600 vines/hectare, whereas at Couhins-Lurton it is 8000 vines/hectare. They have limestone, clay and flint soils. ‘We have five different levels, which gives the best care from the time we receive the fruit at the winery until bottling.’ They farm organically and are converting the whole vineyard, although they have been working organically since 2008. ‘Over time we have developed tools to help us obtain the best results, especially with a gravity fed winery,’ says Arnaud. His cousin, brother and father work with him in Chavignol. The Bourgeois family also planted a vineyard in Marlborough 20 years ago – Clos Henri – with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. ‘It’s a very specific slope that is based on Kimmeridgian marl,’ says Arnaud. It also has a famous slope: Côtes de Mont Damnes. This is one of the 14 villages in the Sancerre appellation, and it’s famous for its goat cheese. ‘Since I have been in charge I’ve tried to develop new technologies from my work in the new world.’Īrnaud Bourgeois works with his well-known family winery based in Chavignol. Jacques recently returned to Bordeaux from various outposts of the family’s winemaking empire. This allows Couhins-Lurton age well and keep their fresh aromas. The grapes ripen but the pH remains low and the level of acidity is high. In particular, the limestone brings to grapes a low pH. Jacques explained the benefits of this terroir. ‘This creates specific conditions for this variety to grow.’ There are 5.5 ha of white grape varieties here, and it is one of the best examples of what Pessac can make as a white wine. The soil is unique: it’s limestone in a region better known for its alluvial gravel soils. This is the only white wine classified as a single estate in Bordeaux, he says.

Jacques Lurton introduced Couhins-Lurton, which is based in the north of Pessac. Both wines are from different regions (although limestone is a commonality), and both have different élevage, with Couhins-Lurton fermented and aged in small oak (one-quarter new), and Mont-Damnés aged in stainless steel. In the Loire corner we have Les Monts Damnés from Henri Bourgeois in Sancerre. In the Bordeaux corner, we have Château Couhins-Lurton, from Pessac-Léognan. It may not be reproduced in any way whatsoever without Wm Morrisons Supermarkets Limited prior consent, nor without due acknowledgement.This was an interesting tasting, looking at the two top examples of Sauvignon Blanc ageing over three decades. This data is supplied for personal use only.

#Sancerre wine how to#

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